One of the major techniques needed for Madame Butterfly was Devore. This is using a chemical paste to remove selected parts of the pile of velvet, to create a pattern. The velvet can then be dyed such that the pile is one colour and the backing fabric another.
I'm hoping to write a full guide to the process in the near future, so for now I've summarized the process in a slideshow video.
The Devore process is quite fiddly, and as this was my first major project, I ended up with some holes in the fabric. However I pushed on, and found a method of fixing them enough that they wouldn't be noticable in the final gown.
Scary holes, made worse by frame tension.
But, cut a patch from a scrap, add a little magic powder...
Press between bits of grease proof paper with a dry iron...
and voila, no holes!
From the right side. They become much less visible once beaded and draped.
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